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Feb 1 16 5:42 PM

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Hi guys, I have printed a few small things with ninjaflex before and the bed adhesion has been "extreme" to the point that the parts can be hard to remove. I am a bit worried that I will never get the palm off without damaging the print bed (Taz 5 PEI). 

I usually print ABS directly on the PEI surface, but I have scotch blue tape, kapton tape and UHU around. Do you use anything to make removal easier?

Last Edited By: jaundice Feb 1 16 9:42 PM. Edited 2 times

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#1 [url]

Feb 1 16 7:38 PM

I think the TAZ-5 recommends PVA glue for Ninjaflex printing. I didn't have any around, so I covered the build plate in Kapton. The build just failed 24 hours in due to a brief power cut (it had 12 hours left)... but it came off the Kapton without too much trouble. I'm going to hook up an uninterruptable power supply (hopefully it has enough wattage) and try the print again since it seemed to be working perfectly. I used the standard print speed Ninjaflex Cura profile ( https://www.lulzbot.com/taz-cura-profiles ) with modifications as specified in the ADA assembly guide ( http://www.openbionics.com/obtutorials/ada-v1-assembly ). I also changed the extrusion temperature from 222 °C to 240 °C since I am using the standard extruder and not the Flexystruder (and I had trouble printing at 235 or lower), but it seems to be printing OK.

Layer height 0.2mm
Fill density 45%
Support material 'Touching Build Plate'
Shell thickness 1mm
Print Speeds
Infill 20mm/s
Outer shell 16mm/s
Inner shell 20mm/s


One question I hope to have answered before I attempt to restart my print is about the support settings:

My current profile is touching "buildplate" with a 30% infill in the "..." advanced settings. This looks like it's going to be very labour-intensive to remove all the support and I was wondering if I can go down to 20% infill. In the long run, I'm hoping to get the FlexyDually Tool Head v2 (when it comes out) and try printing the support in an alternative material (maybe HIPS if the adhesion is good enough) to make removal easier.

I was planning to introduce myself when I had made a bit more progress, but since I'm posting already I'll probably stop by the introduce yourself thread later today.

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#2 [url]

Feb 1 16 8:05 PM

Hi Folks,

Thanks for printing our hand!

John: We had the same problem. We print straight onto glass with an unheated bed and that seems to work really well, parts are always easy to remove. Occasionally you get minor warping.

Callum: We use these support settings and it's OK to remove (takes about 20 mins):

Structure type: Lines
Overhang angle: 52 degrees
Fill amount: 15%
Distance X/Y: 1mm
Distance Z: 0.15mm


We're working on a tutorial purely for 3D printing the hand (it's hard to print something of that size and complexity reliably) which should discuss some of the rational and experimentation behind our print settings.

Last Edited By: OMac Feb 2 16 9:16 AM. Edited 1 time.

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#3 [url]

Feb 1 16 8:06 PM

Thanks @CallumBailey & @JoelGibbard, I'll try UHU then. I might use Cura too (I usually use slic3r and pronterface/printrun mainly for 3d honeycomb infill)

Last Edited By: jaundice Feb 1 16 9:41 PM. Edited 1 time.

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#4 [url]

Feb 2 16 9:55 AM

So it has been printing overnight using UHU, Cura and the modified Cura Ninjaflex profile and support settings as in Joels' post above. I am printing with bed 0C and Print head 230C. The wrist has actually lifted a bit, as has the thumb, so it may come out a bit warped but it seems ok so far. I am noticing that the print head drags the fingers left and right, so it may be worth experimenting with either stiffer support material or using a pattern with more lateral stability, though again they look ok so far.

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#9 [url]

Feb 15 16 5:51 PM

Well done on your prints John and thanks for sharing photos. Those barrel connectors might fit down inside the fingers.

We've just honed down our print settings even further and will be sharing the results shortly. The jist is as follows:

- 0.5 - 0.6mm nozzle
- 215-225 temperature depending on print head.
- Lines support with 25% infill
- 0.3mm layer height
- Fan on (not super important what speed)
- 45% infill

We suspect the most important factor is the nozzle to layer height ratio. i.e. if you're using a smaller nozzle use a smaller layer height and you may also find you get equally good results. We'll be sharing pictures and detailed instructions soon.

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#10 [url]

Jul 29 16 9:48 AM

Hi guys !

did somebody succeed in using Slic3r for printing the ADA hand ?
(i tried the version bundled with the Prusa i3 mk2 printer as well as the newest version but both seem to have problems importing the stl files ....)

is there any other recommendation to generate the gcode format from the stl files ?
( i suppose simplify3D would work but i wonder if there is a free/open source alternative )

Has somebody printed the hand on a Prusa i3 (with flexfill material or ninjaflex) ?
thank you !
chris

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#11 [url]

Oct 28 16 6:11 PM

JoelGibbard wrote:
Hi Folks,

Thanks for printing our hand!

John: We had the same problem. We print straight onto glass with an unheated bed and that seems to work really well, parts are always easy to remove. Occasionally you get minor warping.

Callum: We use these support settings and it's OK to remove (takes about 20 mins):

Structure type: Lines
Overhang angle: 52 degrees
Fill amount: 15%
Distance X/Y: 1mm
Distance Z: 0.15mm


We're working on a tutorial purely for 3D printing the hand (it's hard to print something of that size and complexity reliably) which should discuss some of the rational and experimentation behind our print settings.

Hi JoelGibbard,
Do you have any tips for getting cleaner/smoother prints above the support surface? I am using Simplify3d and can't seem to get ninjaflex to print nicely above the supports.

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#12 [url]

Nov 1 16 5:42 AM

Slic3r is not capable to slice the palm?

Hi Guys,

I wanted to print the palm using Slic3r but it went crazy. Anyone having similar issue?

Thanks!

Rey

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